A Bird in the Hand…..

…..is worth two in the bush.

Many folks love bird watching.  In fact birding is rated as the #1 sport in America—hard to believe if you’re a fellow New Englander with Patriots and the Red Sox fever — but there you have it.  Bird watching is a quiet passive sport often seeking to spot birds hidden in the bush.

Falconry, the “Sport of Kings” on the other hand is something entirely different, very exciting and supposedly the origin of this saying.  Having a valuable falcon or hawk on your hand was more valuable than two birds of prey.

A Harris Hawk

A Harris Hawk

Falconry dates back to approx 2000 BC and it was very much a part of the royal lifestyle in China, Arabia and medieval Europe  (400AD-1500AD).

Falconry reaches its highest level in England and is governed by very strict rules– only a king could fly a gyrfalcon.  Other designations were that an earl could fly a peregrine; a yeoman could have a goshawk, a priest the sparrowhawk and servants were allowed to fly kestrels.  William Shakespeare(1564-1616), famous as a writer but not a sportsman was nonetheless an avid falconer.

Falconry came to the US in the early 1930’s and today the North American Falconer’s Association boasts over 2000 members.  Quite a feat considering that falcons almost died out in the US  from the use of pesticides in the 1960’s and 1970’s.   It used to be that falconry meant working with falcons but today one is called a falconer when working with a falcon or a hawk, the word “hawker” just doesn’t have good connotations anymore.

Falconry is not every man’s sport.  It requires tremendous dedication and a thorough understanding of the falcons (or hawks).  It is necessary to care for and work with your birds every day.  Teaching a wild animal to hunt on command and then give up it’s prey and resubmit itself to a human control, is not an easy feat.  Yet that is what this sport is all about.

Master Falconer Chris Davis

Master Falconer Chris Davis

It is however possible to experience flying a falcon, even if you do not happen to have any royal blood in your veins.  If you love nature and are looking for a modern day adventure, consider a trip to the Pioneer Valley in Massachusetts where Master Falconer Chris Davis will introduce you to the ancient “Sport of Kings” using his trained Harris Hawks.

Chris Davis instructs Innkeeper Mark Ellis on the art of Falconry

Chris Davis instructs Innkeeper Mark Ellis on the art of Falconry

Innkeepers Mark and Deni Ellis of Clamber Hill were lucky enough to experience a “bird in the hand” up close and personal and highly recommend an afternoon with Chris Davis and his falcons.  Chris offers three different levels of falconry, an introductory session for $65, a 1.5 hr extended session for $150 or a full blown hunting session for $200 per participant.  Any of the three will be an experience you will never forget.

Coming in for a landing

Coming in for a landing

If you are interested in falconry call ahead for reservations 413-259-1466, and of course you may stay at Clamber Hill Inn , it’s not far away and we’ll share experiences at the end of the day.   You may even see a Red Tail Hawk in the bushes of Clamber Hill.

Clamber Hill Inn where Red Tail Hawks may be seen flying overhead

Clamber Hill Inn where Red Tail Hawks may be seen flying overhead

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Monadnock, a wonderul mountain to climb

Mt. Monadnock, a wonderful mountain to climb

If you check back in the Clamber Hill blog-o-sphere, there is another post about Mt. Monadnock from August of 2010.   But recently discovering the pictures of our last climb up the mountain, which was also on a gorgeous September day, Mt. Monadnock was just begging to be illuminated once again.

The mountain is located just 34 mi north of Clamber Hill in Jaffrey, New Hampshire.  The claim is that it is the most frequently climbed mountain in North America and the second most frequently climbed mountain in the world.   With a peak 3165 ft (965 m) it is by no means the highest but there is an extensive trail network and the views from the top are fantastic, making it a popular mountain to climb.   Many locals climb the mountain several times a year and at all different times of the day, sunset or sunrise are especially nice.

View from the Summit of Mt. Monadnock

View from the Summit of Mt. Monadnock

Mt. Monadnock is a New Hampshire State Park, and the Headquarters are located on Poole Rd in Jaffrey.  The White Dot trail, a level 4 climb, leads up 1815 ft (553 m) to the Summit directly from the Park Headquarters.  Partway up the White Cross Trail splits off at Falcon Spring.  Both of these trails are approx. 2 miles long and approx. 30% grades  requiring 2 hours to climb to the Summit.  The Spellman Trail is the steepest, most difficult, rated a level 5  with 490 out of 550 yards at a grade of 38%.  Descent along this trail is not recommended.  Starting farther to the west, the Old Halfway House Trail combines with the White Arrow Trail which combined leasd you 2.2 miles to the Summit with an average grade of 27%.  One of the easiest trails is the Pumpelly Trail which starts on the northeast side of the mountain, from Dublin Lake Rd.  This is a 4 mile trail with an average grade of 24% and requires 3 hours to climb to the Summit.

The White Arrow Trail

The White Arrow Trail

And there are many, many more, trails making Monadnock a mountain to be climbed again and again which is exactly what happens, once you become addicted.  The fall is the best time of year to climb Monadnock.  The weather is fantastic, the bugs are gone and the views are great with the fall foliage, even in mid-September.   Many folks make a day of it and take picnics with them to the Summit.  If you do, just remember to carry out what you carry in, i.e. leave no trace.  Picnic or not, it’s advisable to carry water when you climb. With an ascent of 1800 ft you’ll be thirsty no matter which route you have chosen to the top.

If you want some sneak previews or if you’re a shutterbug and want to share your Monadnock experience, Facebook has a Mt. Monadnock page.  Some of the photos there are absolutely spectacular making it easy to understand why this “isolated mountain” is so popular!.

A hint of color at the top of Mt. Monadnock

A hint of color at the top of Mt. Monadnock

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Exploring the Still Waters of Central Massachusetts

Many associate canoes with Native American Indians, but canoes are truly ancient.  One  found in the Netherlands was determined with Carbon 14 dating to be from approx. 8000 BC.  At first canoes were a transportation tool, but in the second half of the 19th century they became a popular from of recreation and in the 20th century they became a sport.  Canoeing has been an Olympic Sport since 1936.

Canoes come in different styles and shapes and are build of many different materials.  Originally built of wood, they are also built of wood and canvas, birch bark, aluminum, fiberglass, kevlar, polyehtylene and even concrete!   Most folks won’t believe the concrete but there is actually a concrete canoe race on the Schuylkill River in Philadelphia and teams from top universities across the country build and race concrete canoes!

A concrete canoe in on the Schuylkill River

A concrete canoe in on the Schuylkill River

Here in Athol, Massachusetts there is also an annual canoe race, the River Rat Race on the Millers River.  Not as exotic as the one on the Schuylkill River but just as zany.  This 5 mile race is run by the Athol Lions Club and now draws people from all over as 250 to 300 canoes compete each year for the greatly coveted title of “River Rat”.

The River Rat Race in Athol MA

The River Rat Race in Athol MA

But sport is only one aspect of canoeing.  Recreation is another major draw.  Many nature and outdoor enthusiasts are interested in canoeing as a means of exploring the world around them, gaining access to otherwise inaccessible places.   Central Massachusetts is a great place for exploring in a canoe, on the abundant rivers and lakes that abound in this undeveloped area.

The Appalachian Mountain Club has a great book, the “Quiet Water Canoe Guide” talking about the best paddling lakes and ponds in Massachusetts, Connecticut and Rhode Island.  Clamber Hill Inn keeps a copy of the first edition of this canoe guide in our library, one of the many resources the inn keeps for our guests to use.  And of course, the innkeepers Mark & Deni check out many of these places personally so that they can give accurate recommendations to the inn guests.

An island in Tully Lake

An island in Tully Lake

Clamber Hill in Petersham MA is centrally located to seven of the paddling ponds recommended in this canoe guide: Paradise Pond in Princeton MA, Moosehorn Pond in Hubbardston MA, Tully Lake and Long Pond in Royalston MA, Lake Dennison in Winchendon MA, Lake Rohunta in Orange MA,  Quaboag Pond in EastBrookfield MA and East Brimfield Lake and Holland Pond in Sturbridge MA.

Tully Lake, a great spot for canoeing or kayaking

Tully Lake, a great spot for canoeing or kayaking

These seven ponds are just the tip of the iceberg as there are many other wonderful places to paddle including Connor’s Pond right here in Petersham MA, Queen Lake in Phillipston MA, Dunn Pond State Park in GardnerMA, Laurel Lake in the Erving State Forest and Barton’s Cove (actually part of the Connecticut River) in Gill, MA.

Canoing in Barton's Cove

Canoing in Barton's Cove on the Connecticut River

So if you like to canoe, as a means of recreation not as a sport, load up your canoe and come to Clamber Hill in Central Massachusetts.   We are blessed with acres and acres of conservation land and state parks.  In fact, there is so much to explore in this area, you will find that you may never want to leave.

Lake Dennison on a September Afternoon

Lake Dennison on a September Afternoon

 

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The Romantic Riesling

I fell in love with wine, and in particular German wine on my honeymoon.  (Just to set the record straight, I had already fallen in love with my husband or we would not have been on our honeymoon!)  We started out in Heidelberg, Germany, where we visited Heidelberg Castle and enjoyed a glass of wine on top of “Das Grosser Fass”.   A large wine barrel that holds 58,580 gallons of wine — so large that there is a dance floor on top of it.  Can you imagine that?

Inside Heidelberg Castle

Inside Heidelberg Castle

After Heidelberg, we traveled east along the Neckar  and stayed in Burg Hornberg, a romantic castle overlooking the river.  The castle was in a gorgeous setting, surrounded by beautiful vineyards of Germany’s Wurttemberg Wine Region.

Overlooking the Neckar

Overlooking the Neckar River from Burg Hornberg July 1982

From there we drove east to Rothenburg ob der Tauber, a wonderfully preserved medieval town surrounded by a high wall with gates and watch towers.  After enjoying several days there, we headed west to the ancient Roman city of Trier (dating back to 2050 BC) and literally stumbled upon the wonderful German wine region of Mosel-Saar-Ruwer.  In addition to steeping ourselves in history by visiting the Roman Ampitheater (2nd century AD),  the Roman Baths  (4th century AD), the Porta Niagra (180 AD) and the beautiful but much newer Rococo Palace in Konstantinplatz built in 17 57,  we enjoyed a summer wine festival in Trier from the top deck of a boat in the middle of the Moselle River, complete with Oom-pah music and fireworks bursting overhead.

From Trier we traveled north along the Moselle’s Strasse 53, the road that runs right along the idyllic, winding river into the heart of the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer wine region.  Driving at a leisurely pace, we visited Weinstuben in several small towns along the river to sample wine from local vineyards.  We spent the night in Zell, in another romantic castle.  Zell is the town famous for the Zeller Schwarze Katz (Zeller Black Cat)–a famous wine making appellation complete with wine labels featuring a hissing black cat and there is a large statue of that hissing black cat right in the town square.

The Moselle (oder Mosel auf Deutsch), a famous German wine region

The Moselle (oder Mosel auf Deutsch), a famous German wine region

Leaving Zell, we traveled up to Koblenz where the Moselle empties into the mighty Rhine River and then followed the Rhine northwards to Cologne, our only large city on the entire trip.  After spending several days in Cologne, once again steeping ourselves in history by visiting the famous Cologne Cathedral and the Romanisches Musum we headed back south to Boppard on the Rhine, back into wine country.

In Boppard, our innkeeper (speaking only German to our English) suggested a cruise along the Rhine River, so we boarded a train to Bingen and enjoyed an all day cruise on the Koln-Dusseldorfer back to Boppard.  The Rhine river valley was full of beautiful castles, romantic ruins and and of course vineyards.   It seemed like another world as we sat on the top deck of the boat and enjoyed the sun, the scenery and a glass of German wine.

Cologne Cathedral on the Rhine River

Cologne Cathedral on the Rhine River

Stopping in the small towns and visiting the small wine cellars called Weinstuben or Weinprobe was delightful and educational.   We found many, many along the way.  For just 1 DM or sometimes  2 DM you tasted 5 small 0.1 liter samples of wine and kept the souvenir tasting glass.   We learned about the quality laws for German wine and how to read German wine labels. We learned the difference between Tafelwein, Landwein, Qualitätswein bestimmter Anbaugebiete (QbA),and Qualitätswein mit Prädikat (QmP) which is further divided into six levels Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenauslese, Eiswein.  We had so much fun learning all about the excellent QmP wines, we did not want to leave.  It is no wonder that the world raves about German wine!

Wine was a central theme throughout the entire trip.  Three romantic rivers in the heart of Germany, lots of picturesque German towns, German history and culture, and many wonderful German vineyards and Weinproben all contributed to both of us falling in love with German wine.

Most Americans think all German wines are sweet white wines and come from the Rhine and/or the Moselle.  We did sample many sweet wines but not all German wine is sweet.  German wine’s reputation as overly sweet is mostly due to the large volume of Liebfraumilch imported into the US, the most famous of which is the famous Blue Nun.  Blue Nun is a lower quality German wine marketed to the US and not representative of the high quality wines available in Germany.

Wonderful German Wine

Wonderful German Wine

There are actually thirteen wine regions now in Germany (two from East Germany added to the eleven from West Germany after the reunification) and18 commercially important grape varieties and surprise of all surprises, seven of them are red!

Riesling is the most important grape in Germany and it’s the grape that put Germany onto the world wine map way back when the world wine map consisted primarily of just France and Germany.  It is one of the Noble Grapes.  There is nothing better than a well made Riesling wine, the epitome of elegance.

The next two grapes of importance are Muller-Thurgau and Silvaner, very prevalent in Germany, especially in Rheinhessen, Baden and Franken, but rare and hard to find in the US.

At Clamber Hill, since we love German wine, we always try to have a high quality Riesling on our restaurant wine list.  Most of our customers are delighted when they discover our Rieslings.

So if you’ve heard about German wine or if you’re curious about German wine, yet hesitant about what to try, come to the Oktoberfest of German Wines at Clamber Hill and experience some high quality German wine!

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Hummers

When we bought Clamber Hill in 1997, we thought it would be nice to create a bird sanctuary at the Inn.   As we started to read and learn about birds, we gradually discovered that we already had a bird sanctuary, the woods, fields, perennial gardens, shrubs, and wetlands provide a host of habitats here at Clamber Hill –about the only thing we needed to add were a few feeders and bird baths.

An early spring visitor at the Clamber Hill bird bath

An early spring visitor at the Clamber Hill bird bath

Each year at Clamber Hill we are visited by a host of avian guests as well as human guests.  Robins, Chickadees, Titmice, Nuthatches, Wrens, Vireos, Woodpeckers, Morning Doves, Blackbirds  and Crows are all regular visitors at various times of the year.  And then we have the more colorful characters, which also visit us often, such as Blue Jays, Goldfinches, Purple Finches, Cardinals, Grosbeaks.  Occasionally we even see a Scarlet Tanager, an Eastern Bluebird or a Baltimore Oriole.  Our larger guests include Wild Turkeys, Red-Tailed Hawks, Pileated Woodpeckers and Barred Owls.

A winter visitor to Clamber Hill, the Barred Owl

A winter visitor to Clamber Hill, the Barred Owl

But our most fascinating guests are the tiniest, the Hummers.  Not humans arriving in the monster SUVs, but the tiny little Hummingbirds which arrive each year in mid-April and stay until the end of August or even some years mid-September.

The first year we were here, my husband was up on a ladder washing windows and thought he was being buzzed by bees or hornets.  It turns out he was being buzzed by Ruby-Throated Hummingbirds.  Luckily, he did not fall off the ladder!

From that point on, my husband set out to take care of them and in return they flock to Clamber Hill each year.  So how do you care for a hummingbird?  Well like any other creature, you observe them to determine what they like and what they don’t like.

I used to buy my husband fancy hummingbird feeders but the birds avoided them, it seems they like the plan ones the best.  Now we have have seven or eight of the small plain feeders in addition to lots of flowers that they like.  But you need to spread the feeders out.  The hummingbirds fight over them.  We move them around until we find spots that they like.  Once you find the right spots, they’ll come back year after year.

A Ruby-Throated Hummingbird at the feeder

A Ruby-Throated Hummingbird at the feeder

And like everything else at Clamber Hill, we make our Hummingbird Nectar from scratch, it is amazingly simple and they love it.  Don’t be fooled into thinking it has to be red — the important thing is the sugar content which has to be above 10%.  But when you make it strong enough, it won’t be clear but a deep golden color and they love it.   Be careful where you place the feeders, if they are out in the hot sun, the nectar ferments and then the birds don’t like it.

We have cats and dogs, and neither bother the birds and the birds aren’t bothered by them.  Oh sure, once in a blue moon one of the  cats comes back with a bird in it’s mouth,  (most of the time the birds are still alive and can be rescued)  but in six years of having cats, it has never been a hummingbird.  It turns out that adult hummingbirds are very seldom bothered by predators.  That might have something to do with the fact that they can fly away at escape speeds of up to 50 miles per hour!

The most dangerous thing to our hummingbirds seems to be our screen porch.  We used to leave the door open but they would fly into the dark area and not be able to find the door again, eventually getting their beaks stuck in the screen and we’d have to rescue them.  Their hearts which beat at 250 beats per minute at rest would be in flight mode of 1200 beats per minute and you can feel it when you hold them in your hand.  So we have modified our porch door to protect the birds.

The hummingbirds are tremendously entertaining.  The bird feeders are placed so that my husband can watch them while he cooks, I can watch them while working at the computer or doing dishes and out inn guests can watch them while having breakfast.  Hummingbirds actually spend only 10-15% of their time feeding and 75 to 80% of their time resting or resting and digesting.  You would never know that except from a book — it seems that they are always busy buzzing the feeders.   I have actually had some supposed bird experts tell me that hummingbirds never stop flying.  This is a myth and definitely not true.  Anyone who spends any time at all observing them knows that they like to perch on branches.

A hummingbird resting on a small branch

A hummingbird resting on a small branch

Another interesting tidbit about a hummingbird diet is that they can’t survive on nectar alone.  They also eat insects and spiders to add protein, amino acids, vitamins and minerals to their diet.  This is something I’ve never seen them do, I guess you have to get up pretty early in the morning to catch them at that.

One of our favorite times to watch them is at dusk.  They are wonderful aeronautic acrobats.  We would sit on the back porch and watch them flit from tree to tree and fight over the feeders.  While watching them we noticed that the males were flying in these big U’s.  It was very curious, so we looked it up and found that this is part of the hummingbird mating ritual.  Apparently it works because we are loaded with young hummingbirds right now.

And speaking of curiosities?  Did you ever wonder why the birds are iridescent?  It turns out that hummingbirds have an unusual feather structure with microscopic ridges so light is refracted as well as reflected giving the Ruby-Throated Hummingbirds, especially the females their iridescence.

The Ruby-Throated Hummingbirds, especially the females are iridescent

The Ruby-Throated Hummingbirds, especially the females are iridescent

But like most of our other avian guests, the Hummers are fickle — they come and go as they please, moving on to “greener pastures” as the weather gets cold.   In point of fact it’s the decreasing sunlit hours that tells our tiny guests it’s time to go,  not the change in temperature.

So we’ll enjoy watching them for a few more weeks and then say “Auf Widersehen” until we see you again, hopefully next April at Clamber Hill.

Note:  All photos taken at Clamber Hill in summer of 2011

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Jumping into Adventure in Central Massachusetts

Some people think it is downright crazy to jump out of an airplane but it is something that I have always wanted to do.  Crazy or not, some of our Clamber Hill guests come to the North Quabbin Area just to visit Jumptown, the first commercial skidiving center in the US.

Jumptown is located just 12 miles from Clamber Hill at the Orange Municipal Airport.  It is a small quiet airport with multiple 5000 ft long runways.   Jumptown is operated by the Massachusetts Sport Parachute Club (MSPC), a not-for-profit organization.

It is also a group member of the USPA, the United States Parachute Association,  a non-profit individual membership organization dedicated to promoting the safe enjoyment of skydiving.  Speaking of safety, skydivers take safety seriously.  It is estimated that there is only a 0.0007% chance of a fatal accident, making skydiving a very safe sport, much safer than driving your car!

All levels of student and experienced jumpers welcome at Jumptown.  You have to be 18 or older but there is no upper age limit.  If you happen to be over 65 and new to skydiving, Jumptown does recommend that you consult with your physician first.  There is a weight limit, you have to weigh less than 240 lbs for Tandem jumps and less than 250 lbs for Accelerated Free Fall.  Most people start with a Tandem jump.

A Tandem Skydive

A Tandem Skydive at Jumptown in Orange MA

Jumptown offers Tandem Skydives where one goes through the training and then makes the tandem skydive all in the same day.  The cost is $225 (plus another $90 if you want photographs of the experience) A friend of mine recently did this and gave me permission to use the photos for this article.  The report is that it is an absolutely fantastic experience.  Jumptown uses a multi-engined Twin Otter aircraft to get you to the 13,500 ft jump altitude quickly.

Ready to jump

OMG it's time to jump!

Down on the ground, there is on-site food service and a shaded observation area for spectators and Jumptown does welcome spectators.  The Jumptown facility at the Orange airport was specifically designed to support skydiving, and there are classrooms, team rooms, showers, and indoor packing space.

Skydiving has become quite popular since the end of World War II.  The USPA now has 33,000 members and it is estimated that they make 3 million dives annually.  New England has 11 drop zones with 4 of the 11 right here in Massachusetts, 2 in CT, 2 in RI, 2 in VT and 1 up in Lebanon Maine.

So if you’re looking for a little adventure in your life, try a Tandem jump at Jumptown.   A Gift Certificate to Jumptown ( or combined Gift Certificates to Jumptown and Clamber Hill) makes a great birthday and/or anniversary present.  Adventure is just a short drive and a long jump away.

Open Parachute

The end of the ride

 

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Freilichtmuseum in Massachusetts

Interestingly enough, in Germany Open-air museums are called Freilicht — not Freiluft.  Free or open light, not open air.  The first Freilicht Museum was actually built in Norway in 1888.   In the USA, these museums are called Open-air Museums, Living Museums or Living History Museums.  No matter what the name, the goal is to educate about the history, architecture and culture of a bygone era.

Here in Central Massachusetts, we are lucky to have two Living History Museums close by.  The more famous one, Old Sturbridge Village is located on 200 acres.  It now has 59 buildings, 3 mills and a farm.  It exists thanks to the Wells family of Southbridge MA, who established the museum between 1935 and 1946.  Channing Wells, AB Wells and Cheney Wells were all avid collectors of antiques.  In 1935 they established the Wells Historical Museum in Southbridge.  At a meeting in 1936, one of the brothers made the comment that a whole village was needed to house their various collections and the idea of Old Sturbridge Village took off from there.  The first major step was purchasing the farm of David Wight in Sturbridge MA, complete with a saw mill, grist mill and working mill pond, all of which are still in existence today.  From there, the mission expanded to collecting houses from all over New England.

After years of collecting and relocating houses and other structures, Old Sturbridge Village (OSV)  officially opened on June 8, 1946.  Included in the Village is the Friends Meeting House, the Center Meeting House, the Tin Shop, the Salem Town House, a Law Office,  a Parsonnage, the Asa Knight Store, the Thompson Bank, the Fenno House, the Fitch House, a Printing Office, a Shoe Shop and a Town Pound.  There is even more to visit as you walk down the country roads to visit the farm or the mills.

With such a collection of houses, it’s difficult to pin the history to a particular year.  The period portrayed ranges from 1790-1840.  This period is of major significance to New England because lives were transformed by the rise of commerce and manufacturing, improvements in agriculture and transportation, the pulls of emigration and urbanization, and the tides of educational, political, aesthetic, and social change.

Interpreters or docents dressed in period costumes, help you experience village life  in the historical period.  But don’t think that history is boring.  This is a great place to bring children and let them make such necessities as wax candles or tin candle holders.

The other Freilicht museum near by is Historic Deerfield.  This is both a town where time has stopped and also a vibrant modern community with a nice historic inn and a famous prep school.  Unlike Sturbridge, the town and the museum are co-mingled which provides a slightly different experience for museum visitors.

Historic Deerfield was founded in 1952 and comprises 52 buildings on 93 acres.  Eleven houses are open during museum hours.  These were build in the period from 1720 to 1850 and with a couple of exceptions are all original to the town of Deerfield.

In addition to the buildings, the museum has a collection of over 25,000 historically significant objects including American Furniture, American & English Silver, American & English Textiles, English & Chinese Ceramics and hundreds of paintings on display in the houses.  In addition to the historic buildings there is a visitor center, a museum store and the Historic Deerfield Inn built in 1884.   The Inn has 24 guest rooms and a fine dining establishment.

Clamber Hill, another albeit smaller and younger historic inn with a fine dining restaurant, is located more or less equi-distant between these two wonderful museums.  So if you’re a history buff and want to learn more about New England, plan a weekend or even a week here in Central Massachusetts.

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The Other Whites

When we moved back to Massachusetts after living in Europe for almost five years, my first dinner was at the Wachusett Village Inn in Westminster.    We were not given a wine list, so I asked our waitress if they carried wine and her enthusiastic reply was, “Oh yes, we have both kinds,….Red and White!”  My immediate thought was …”you’re not in Kansas anymore!”

Two Kinds of Wine --Red and White!

Two Kinds of Wine --Red and White!

Unfortunately, too many Americans drink only Chardonnay or Cabernet Sauvignon,  unaware of the tremendous variety of wine available –so our waitress wasn’t far off with “Red and White”

Chardonnay is not only the most popular white varietal the US, but also the most popular white wine in the world.  Ditto Cabernet Sauvignon for the red varietals.  However, there are somewhere between 5000 and 10,000 varieties of grapes worldwide, of which 150 are planted in commercially significant quantities.  Determining the exact number of varietals gets complicated because some varieties have several names, in fact there are 24,000 different names for grapes, but DNA evaluations (UC DAvis) are helping to narrow down what are truly different varietals and the best currant guess is 5000.   Sadly, most of us don’t know 10 types of wine, let alone 150 varieties of grapes.

Clamber Hill is offering a series of wine tastings, to help local wine enthusiasts explore and expand their palates.  The one coming up next week is named “The Other Whites” featuring some  “Classic Whites” and some of the “Lesser Known Whites”.  An inexpensive way to explore the world of white wine, or at least dip you toes into it.  And following that there will be one on German Wines, featuring Riesling and Gewurztraminer wines.

Try a different white wine at a Clamber Hill Wine Tasting

Try a different white wine at a Clamber Hill Wine Tasting

Different experts list different varietals as “Classic Whites”.  What is a Classic White?  Kevin Zraly states that 90% of all white wines are made from just three grapes.  Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling.   All definitely classics. Andrea Robinson adds Pinot Grigo/Pinot Gris to the major white grapes.   Karen MacNeil, on the other hand, leaves  Pinot Grigio out,  but includes Chenin Blanc, and Semillon as classic whites.   Michael Schuster sides with Karen MacNeil but adds Gewurtraminer into the classic wine mix.  No wonder why it’s all so confusing.

Let’s start with Pinot Grigio ( skipping Chardonnay because there is an entire blog on that already).  Pinot Grigio is the debate-able Classic!   Pinot Grigio just happens to be the second most popular white wine in the US and ranks 4th in overall popularity in the US, following Chardonnay, Cabenet Sauvignon and Merlot.  This means it is a wine that cannot be ignored.   So why is Pinot Grigio so often left off the Classic list?  Many experts consider Pinot Grigio to be too simple, a relatively uncomplicated wine, light dry and crisp.  An everyday table wine, not capable of great complexity.

Pinot Grigio is also known as Pinot Gris, Rulander and Pinot Beuret, but do not mistake Pinot Blanc for Pinot Grigio –that is another grape not just another name! Pinot Gris is thought to have originated in Burgundy France as a mutant of Pinot Noir.  But despite it’s French origins, it was Italy that made Pinot Grigio famous in the US.   With over 900 different Italian wines, Pinot Grigio is not the most popular wine in Italy, but it is the largest Italian import to the US.   In fact,  the sales of Pinot Grigio, which took off in the early 1990s,  put Italy on the US radar screen as a top wine producing country.  Why is it so popular?  No oak and refreshing acidity.  An easy uncomplicated wine which pairs well with food and also makes a great Aperitif,  filling a market niche in the US.

Pinot Grigio is a grape that grows best in cool climates, which may explain why the best Pinot Grigios from Italy come from the area known as the Tre Venezie, the three (tre) wine regions of Fruili-Venezia Giula, Trentino-Alto Adige and Vento in the foothills of the Alps.  Another not well known hot spot is Alsace, on the French/German border, where one finds the lovely Tokay Pinot Gris.  And if you’re looking for a good US produced PG, try Oregon!

Sauvignon Blanc is also thought to have originated in France, but in the southwestern France, not Burgundy.  Today it is most well known in Bordeaux, the dry Bordeaux Blanc from Graves or Entre-Deux-Mers,  or the sweet Sauternes including the famous Chateau D’Yquem.  Both of these are normally blends of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, another of the “Classic Whites”.    It is also famous in the Loire Valley where it is known as Pouilly-Fume or Sancerre and in California where it is called Fume Blanc.   Sauvignon Blanc is widely cultivated all over the world.  Much of the Sauvignon Blanc that is consumed in the US comes from New Zealand.  Just like Pinot Grigio put Italy on the map,  Sauvignon Blanc is the grape that put New Zealand on the map for most wine drinking Americans.   It is also widely cultivated in  Chile, Canada, Australia, and South Africa.

Although Riesling ranks at approx. # 20 in terms of worldwide production quantities, most experts include it in the top three for classic white wines of high quality.  Riesling comes from Germany and when one thinks of German wine, one thinks of Riesling.     The most famous Rieslings come from the Moselle River Valley and the Rhine River Valley.  The best German Rieslings come from Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, (my personal favorite), the Pfalz, Rheingau, the Nahe and Rheinhessen.  Today, the Riesling grape is also widely cultivated in Austria, Australia, New Zealand and Washington State.

Riesling is an aromatic grape displaying flowery, almost perfumed, aromas as well as high acidity and can produce a wide range of wines from cloyingly sweet to bone dry.  In Germany there are strict regulations for growing, harvesting and labeling the different quality levels, Taflewein, QbA, Kabinett, Spatlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenauslese and Eiswein.  Unfortunately for Americans, most of the Rieslings imported from Germany, are of a lesser quality (QbA) and tend to be on the sweet side. Even though Riesling wines have a reputation for being sweet,  they are produced in a wide range of styles and qualities, including superior dry wines –just look for the word “Trocken” on the label!

Terraced Vineyards along the Rhine River

Riesling Grapes along the Rhine River in Germany

Chenin Blanc is a very, very, old varietal, however it is no longer well known outside of France and South Africa.  It’s home is the Loire Valley in France, where it is also called  Pineau de la Loire.  And don’t forget that in France, wine is labeled by location, not varietal so don’t look for a Chenin Blanc on the label, look for an Anjou, a Savennieres, a Touraine or a Vouvray!  If you’re wine shopping for South Africa wines look for a Steen.   Like the Riesling, Chenin Blanc has a high natural acidity that allows for a variety of styles from bone-dry to sweet and Botrytised to sparkling.  The great majority of wine from South Africa is well made in a dry to off dry style–light, crisp and fresh.  Chenin Blanc is also grown in California, but unfortunately for Americans, the majority of this goes into jug wine, one of the reasons for Chenin Blanc’s poor reputation in this country.

Semillon is even less well known than Chenin Blanc.  There are really only two places in the world that excel in Semillon.  The Bordeaux region of France (surprise, surprise) and Australia.   Again, like the Riesling and the Chenin Blanc, the Semillon grape varietal makes an impressive range of wine styles from light, unoaked and bone-dry to luscious, barrel fermented and intensely sweet.  Semillon is present in most Bordeaux Blanc.  A blend such as a Pessac-Leognan from Graves lets you sample the dry version or a Barsac or Sauternes lets you sample the sweet botrysized version, the most famous of which is Chateau d’Yquem.  The Australians, ever prone to experimenting with wines,  developed their own trademark by blending Semillon with Chardonnay, very different from the French Bordeaux.  But if you’re interesting in trying one of these blends or even a stand alone Semillon, you’ll have to go hunting–  Semillon is not an easy wine to find in this country.

And that brings us to Gewurztraminer, the famous varietal (well maybe not so famous in the US) from Alsace.  Gewurz means spicy in German and this wine, even when dry, has interesting floral, lavender, lychee, rose and other gently “spicy” notes that make it smooth and silky.   It is a difficult wine to produce,  so not widely planted of Alsace, but when well made, it is truly distinctive, a great classic wine.

That brings us to the “Lesser Whites”, among which are some of my favorites.  Viognier from the Rhone Valley in France.  Look for a wine labeled Condrieu or Chateau-Grillet.  It is also grown in California and Australia now.  Soave (the Garganega grape) from the town of Soave, in Veneto Italy.  This was more widely imported into the US before Pinot Grigio took over as the dominant import.  We discovered it on a trip through Italy, when we stayed in the town of Soave.   Look for a Soave Classico from Anselmi or Pieropan.  Not to be left out of German wines is the  Silvaner from Franken and the Mueller-Thurgau from Baden.  (Both of these are wines that you will have to hunt for in the US).  And then there is Muscadet (actually the Melon de Bourgogne grape) from the Loire Valley in France.   This is one of my favorites to pair with seafood, especially shellfish.  Discovered at a wine tasting is Alvarinho from Portugal (or Albarino from Spain).  And the list goes on and on.   There is much to explore, if you can find it in a local restaurant or wine shop.

Remember, that every time you go to a restaurant, it is a low cost, low risk way to try a new wine.  So the next time, a waitress asks you what kind of wine you would like, ask for one of the other “Classic Whites” or even one of the “Lesser Whites”…..that way maybe some day we will have more choice….even here in the US.

Soave Italy

Garganega Grapevines in Veneto Italy

 

 

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Summer Fun at the Beach

Normally one thinks of either the Atlantic Coast or the Pacific Coast when someone mentions the word beach.  But Massachusetts has lots of lovely beaches right in the center of the state.   In fact there are 19 beaches in Central Massachusetts, at least according to the MA Department of Conservation and Recreation.  In reality there are more.

Swimming in pristine ponds or lakes is different from swimming in the ocean and both are enjoyable.  So if it’s a hot day and you don’t have time for a drive to the coast try one of these local options.

Enjoying the lakes of Central Massachusetts

Enjoying the lakes of Central Massachusetts

There is a popular beach at Ruggles Pond in the Wendell State Forest.  This 10 acre pond offers crystal clear water for swimming and fishing. Picnic sites and a ball field with a pavilion are nearby.  Boating is possible on nearby Wickett Pond.

Dunn Pond State Park in Gardner MA is a 130 acre park with a 20 acre pond for swimming, boating and fishing.  There are also picnic tables and grills so you can enjoy the whole day at the beach.  It does cost $5.00 a day for parking (annual passes available also) but with the price of gas these days that’s a bargain.

Just off the Mohawk Trail in Erving MA one finds the Laurel Lake Recreation Area in the Erving State Forest.  This is another wonderful spot to swim.  The 51 acre lake sits high atop a mountain and the water is refreshingly cool.  Laural Lake has hiking, boating, camping and picnic facilities—once again there is an entrance fee.

In between Baldwinville and Winchendon, just off Rt. 202 is the Lake Dennison Recreation Area.  Lake Dennison is part of the Otter River State Forest, an 82 acre lake in a 12,000 acre forest.  There is a large, sandy beach here with lots of room to swim and play.  Again being part of the MA State Park system, there is a fee.  However the annual pass gets you into all of these places.

Lake Wyola is a 128 acre lake in Shutesbury MA, not far from the bustling college town of Amherst.   On the crystal clear waters of this beautiful lake, one can swim at the guarded beach or picnic at one of the many picnic sites all with charcoal grills.   But beware, typically this lake is crowded on a hot summers day.

All five of these DCR recreation area’s are close to Clamber Hill, and they are all lovely places to swim, or just cool off on a hot day.  Put our favorite lake is Queen Lake, a beautiful 150 acre lake just five miles down Rt 101 from the Inn in Phillipston MA.  There is a nice sandy beach at the southern end of the lake and you can swim long distances safely.

Queen Lake in Phillipston MA

Queen Lake in Phillipston MA

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Hiking—the easy, low cost way to discover the “Great Outdoors”

Many of us first encounter the joys of hiking as a Girl Scout or Boy Scout. And hiking can be fun and adventurous for children, adults  and families.  Not only is hiking fun, it also leads to relaxation and  better health.  In fact studies have shown that hiking 3 to 4 times a week for 30 to 60 minutes can strengthen you heart, lower your blood pressure, lower your cholesterol, decrease back pain, decrease pain from arthritis, reduce weight and slow the aging process.  Can you imagine something that is fun and enjoyable is actually beneficial?!

Central Massachusetts has many great places to hike and many of them are just a short drive (or hike) from Clamber Hill.  The closest place to hike is out the back door, through our woods and into Harvard Forest.  It takes about 90 minutes to hike down the hill to Havard Pond….and then of course another 90 minutes back to the Inn.  There are lots of “loops” in the woods though so you can adjust your hiking time and distance with ease.

Hiking with the dogs at Jacobs Hill

Hiking with the dogs at Jacobs Hill

Innkeepers Mark & Deni Ellis love to hike, especially with their dogs, and have many recommendations for the overnight guests interested in hiking.  There are twelve Trustees of Reservation Properties in Central Massachusestt and nine of them are very close to the Inn.  Three are right in Petersham, the North Common Meadow, James W. Brooks Woodland Preserve and the Swift River Reservation and hiking with dogs is allowed.  A fourth property is just down the road in Phillipston, the Elliot Laurel Reservation–beautiful when the mountain laurel are in bloom.  The next closest to the inn, all have beautiful waterfalls to be enjoyed along with the hike:  Doane’s Falls in Athol, Bear’s Den in New Salem, Jacobs Hill in Royalston and Royalston Falls (also in Royalston).  And the ninth is Rock House Reservation in West Brookfield.

Hiking alongside Doane's Falls in Athol MA

Hiking alongside Doane's Falls in Athol MA

Another great place to hike is the Quabbin (however your canine companions must be left behind).  The Quabbin Reservoir, a 39 sq mile body of water, holding 412 billion gallons of water when it is full.  The reservoir has 181 miles of shoreline and 55 “Gates” which are basically old roads turned into hiking trails which lead in most cases to the shore line.  Most of the “Gates” take you to the shoreline with hikes of  1 to 3 miles.  One of the most popular Gates is number 40 which leads to the old Dana Town Common.  One can still see the old cellar holes surrounding the Dana Common.

And this is just the beginning of the list.  There is also the Federated  Women’s Club State Forest on the Petersham/New Salem line, the Long Trail at Tully Lake, trails in the Wendell Sate Forest, the Erving State Forest, the Otter River State Forest, the Lake Dennison Recreation Area, the Mt. Grace State Forest, the Rutland State Park etc. etc. etc.

And if you love to climb while you hike, Mt. Monadnock is just a short drive away in Jaffrey, New Hampshire.  It is the most climbed mountain in North America and there are many different trails leading to the top.

Mt. Monadnock

Mt. Monadnock, one of the most frequently hiked mountains in the world.

So there is an abundance of opportunity for hiking, trekking, rambling, tramping, bushwhacking or whatever term you happen to use for walking in a natural environment here in Central Massachusetts.   And not only are the Clamber Hill innkeepers ready and willing to offer advice and maps, but they also have a library of books on hiking opportunities in the area.  Come for a day or come for a week–but come to Central Massachusetts because August, September and October (up to the start of hunting season) is the best time of year to get out there and discover the truly “Great Outdoors”.

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