When we moved back to Massachusetts after living in Europe for almost five years, my first dinner was at the Wachusett Village Inn in Westminster. We were not given a wine list, so I asked our waitress if they carried wine and her enthusiastic reply was, “Oh yes, we have both kinds,….Red and White!” My immediate thought was …”you’re not in Kansas anymore!”

Two Kinds of Wine --Red and White!
Unfortunately, too many Americans drink only Chardonnay or Cabernet Sauvignon, unaware of the tremendous variety of wine available –so our waitress wasn’t far off with “Red and White”
Chardonnay is not only the most popular white varietal the US, but also the most popular white wine in the world. Ditto Cabernet Sauvignon for the red varietals. However, there are somewhere between 5000 and 10,000 varieties of grapes worldwide, of which 150 are planted in commercially significant quantities. Determining the exact number of varietals gets complicated because some varieties have several names, in fact there are 24,000 different names for grapes, but DNA evaluations (UC DAvis) are helping to narrow down what are truly different varietals and the best currant guess is 5000. Sadly, most of us don’t know 10 types of wine, let alone 150 varieties of grapes.
Clamber Hill is offering a series of wine tastings, to help local wine enthusiasts explore and expand their palates. The one coming up next week is named “The Other Whites” featuring some “Classic Whites” and some of the “Lesser Known Whites”. An inexpensive way to explore the world of white wine, or at least dip you toes into it. And following that there will be one on German Wines, featuring Riesling and Gewurztraminer wines.

Try a different white wine at a Clamber Hill Wine Tasting
Different experts list different varietals as “Classic Whites”. What is a Classic White? Kevin Zraly states that 90% of all white wines are made from just three grapes. Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling. All definitely classics. Andrea Robinson adds Pinot Grigo/Pinot Gris to the major white grapes. Karen MacNeil, on the other hand, leaves Pinot Grigio out, but includes Chenin Blanc, and Semillon as classic whites. Michael Schuster sides with Karen MacNeil but adds Gewurtraminer into the classic wine mix. No wonder why it’s all so confusing.
Let’s start with Pinot Grigio ( skipping Chardonnay because there is an entire blog on that already). Pinot Grigio is the debate-able Classic! Pinot Grigio just happens to be the second most popular white wine in the US and ranks 4th in overall popularity in the US, following Chardonnay, Cabenet Sauvignon and Merlot. This means it is a wine that cannot be ignored. So why is Pinot Grigio so often left off the Classic list? Many experts consider Pinot Grigio to be too simple, a relatively uncomplicated wine, light dry and crisp. An everyday table wine, not capable of great complexity.
Pinot Grigio is also known as Pinot Gris, Rulander and Pinot Beuret, but do not mistake Pinot Blanc for Pinot Grigio –that is another grape not just another name! Pinot Gris is thought to have originated in Burgundy France as a mutant of Pinot Noir. But despite it’s French origins, it was Italy that made Pinot Grigio famous in the US. With over 900 different Italian wines, Pinot Grigio is not the most popular wine in Italy, but it is the largest Italian import to the US. In fact, the sales of Pinot Grigio, which took off in the early 1990s, put Italy on the US radar screen as a top wine producing country. Why is it so popular? No oak and refreshing acidity. An easy uncomplicated wine which pairs well with food and also makes a great Aperitif, filling a market niche in the US.
Pinot Grigio is a grape that grows best in cool climates, which may explain why the best Pinot Grigios from Italy come from the area known as the Tre Venezie, the three (tre) wine regions of Fruili-Venezia Giula, Trentino-Alto Adige and Vento in the foothills of the Alps. Another not well known hot spot is Alsace, on the French/German border, where one finds the lovely Tokay Pinot Gris. And if you’re looking for a good US produced PG, try Oregon!
Sauvignon Blanc is also thought to have originated in France, but in the southwestern France, not Burgundy. Today it is most well known in Bordeaux, the dry Bordeaux Blanc from Graves or Entre-Deux-Mers, or the sweet Sauternes including the famous Chateau D’Yquem. Both of these are normally blends of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, another of the “Classic Whites”. It is also famous in the Loire Valley where it is known as Pouilly-Fume or Sancerre and in California where it is called Fume Blanc. Sauvignon Blanc is widely cultivated all over the world. Much of the Sauvignon Blanc that is consumed in the US comes from New Zealand. Just like Pinot Grigio put Italy on the map, Sauvignon Blanc is the grape that put New Zealand on the map for most wine drinking Americans. It is also widely cultivated in Chile, Canada, Australia, and South Africa.
Although Riesling ranks at approx. # 20 in terms of worldwide production quantities, most experts include it in the top three for classic white wines of high quality. Riesling comes from Germany and when one thinks of German wine, one thinks of Riesling. The most famous Rieslings come from the Moselle River Valley and the Rhine River Valley. The best German Rieslings come from Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, (my personal favorite), the Pfalz, Rheingau, the Nahe and Rheinhessen. Today, the Riesling grape is also widely cultivated in Austria, Australia, New Zealand and Washington State.
Riesling is an aromatic grape displaying flowery, almost perfumed, aromas as well as high acidity and can produce a wide range of wines from cloyingly sweet to bone dry. In Germany there are strict regulations for growing, harvesting and labeling the different quality levels, Taflewein, QbA, Kabinett, Spatlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenauslese and Eiswein. Unfortunately for Americans, most of the Rieslings imported from Germany, are of a lesser quality (QbA) and tend to be on the sweet side. Even though Riesling wines have a reputation for being sweet, they are produced in a wide range of styles and qualities, including superior dry wines –just look for the word “Trocken” on the label!

Riesling Grapes along the Rhine River in Germany
Chenin Blanc is a very, very, old varietal, however it is no longer well known outside of France and South Africa. It’s home is the Loire Valley in France, where it is also called Pineau de la Loire. And don’t forget that in France, wine is labeled by location, not varietal so don’t look for a Chenin Blanc on the label, look for an Anjou, a Savennieres, a Touraine or a Vouvray! If you’re wine shopping for South Africa wines look for a Steen. Like the Riesling, Chenin Blanc has a high natural acidity that allows for a variety of styles from bone-dry to sweet and Botrytised to sparkling. The great majority of wine from South Africa is well made in a dry to off dry style–light, crisp and fresh. Chenin Blanc is also grown in California, but unfortunately for Americans, the majority of this goes into jug wine, one of the reasons for Chenin Blanc’s poor reputation in this country.
Semillon is even less well known than Chenin Blanc. There are really only two places in the world that excel in Semillon. The Bordeaux region of France (surprise, surprise) and Australia. Again, like the Riesling and the Chenin Blanc, the Semillon grape varietal makes an impressive range of wine styles from light, unoaked and bone-dry to luscious, barrel fermented and intensely sweet. Semillon is present in most Bordeaux Blanc. A blend such as a Pessac-Leognan from Graves lets you sample the dry version or a Barsac or Sauternes lets you sample the sweet botrysized version, the most famous of which is Chateau d’Yquem. The Australians, ever prone to experimenting with wines, developed their own trademark by blending Semillon with Chardonnay, very different from the French Bordeaux. But if you’re interesting in trying one of these blends or even a stand alone Semillon, you’ll have to go hunting– Semillon is not an easy wine to find in this country.
And that brings us to Gewurztraminer, the famous varietal (well maybe not so famous in the US) from Alsace. Gewurz means spicy in German and this wine, even when dry, has interesting floral, lavender, lychee, rose and other gently “spicy” notes that make it smooth and silky. It is a difficult wine to produce, so not widely planted of Alsace, but when well made, it is truly distinctive, a great classic wine.
That brings us to the “Lesser Whites”, among which are some of my favorites. Viognier from the Rhone Valley in France. Look for a wine labeled Condrieu or Chateau-Grillet. It is also grown in California and Australia now. Soave (the Garganega grape) from the town of Soave, in Veneto Italy. This was more widely imported into the US before Pinot Grigio took over as the dominant import. We discovered it on a trip through Italy, when we stayed in the town of Soave. Look for a Soave Classico from Anselmi or Pieropan. Not to be left out of German wines is the Silvaner from Franken and the Mueller-Thurgau from Baden. (Both of these are wines that you will have to hunt for in the US). And then there is Muscadet (actually the Melon de Bourgogne grape) from the Loire Valley in France. This is one of my favorites to pair with seafood, especially shellfish. Discovered at a wine tasting is Alvarinho from Portugal (or Albarino from Spain). And the list goes on and on. There is much to explore, if you can find it in a local restaurant or wine shop.
Remember, that every time you go to a restaurant, it is a low cost, low risk way to try a new wine. So the next time, a waitress asks you what kind of wine you would like, ask for one of the other “Classic Whites” or even one of the “Lesser Whites”…..that way maybe some day we will have more choice….even here in the US.

Garganega Grapevines in Veneto Italy